Ivan Radford | On 26, Dec 2024

“Let the baking begin!” “You’re trying to make that a catchphrase, aren’t you…” That’s the sound of Oliver and James Phelps – aka the Weasley twins from the Harry Potter movies – turning their hands to TV presenting for Harry Potter: Wizards of Baking. When you’ve watching a TV baking contest themed around said wizarding franchise hosted by its two comic relief sidekicks while the books are being remade as a new show, you know that you’re in commercial algorithm territory – and coming up with a catchphrase is just part of the expected formula.

The show, which is clearly designed to tap into as many target audience verticals as possible, could be a soulless affair, as bakers compete to produce the best Harry Potter-inspired creations. But the format understands the secret to the success of Bake Off and other food contests isn’t so much the franchise but the people – and, in this instance, avid Harry Potter fans.

A total of 18 bakers are assembled to bring their passion for all things edible and wizarding to the table. Rather than individuals or friends in teams, though, the series takes the smart approach of pairing up total strangers – typical one a cake or decorating specialist, one a patisserie specialist – so part of the fun is seeing then learn each other’s strengths and how to work together. The first round involves a 2ft showstopper that has to include two flavour elements and a magical element, which they can interpret how they wish.

With that kind of freedom – although more specific briefs come later – the series is a refreshingly diverse mix of ideas and imagination, from snitches filled with popcorn mousse to a potions cabinet with a cauldron being filled with dragon’s blood from a floating vial. A huge amount of chocolate and isomalt are used to varying purposes, the most impressive include a Mirror of Erised and a pair of Luna Lovegood Spectrespecs that reveal a hidden icing message. The use of a cash-firing gun to shoot out Hogwarts invitation letters is particularly inspired. That celebration of unique personalities and talents makes for excitingly unusual viewing. Baking aficionados will be amazed and inspired (or intimidated) in equal measure, especially when someone pivots halfway through a bake to create a chocolate clay when their initial plan goes awry – that kind of skill under pressure is rarely seen on foodie TV.

But – and here’s the clever bit – those who aren’t fans of baking but are fans of Harry Potter will still enjoy seeing their favourite bits of the books or films be brought to life in new ways. Scarves, trees, cars, trains and wands are all on display, dished up by nerds whose enthusiasm is as relatable as it is infectious. The decision to bring out each pair of contestants one by one makes for a slightly uneven pace to the opening episodes, but the shared love for all things HP provides a shortcut to become emotionally invested in each couple’s efforts.

The judges are Carla Hall and Jozef Youssef, who are a bit gentler and more encouraging than most TV judges – you may well want them to go into more detail about their decisions. But they lean into the magical vibe of the whole show, awarding people tickets to the Hogwarts Express to move on to the next part of the show – Gringotts. The use of the Warner Bros Studio Tour is an inspired, if obvious, touch, as it allows for recognisable sets and props to give added authenticity to the production without higher costs – and a sprinkling of celebrity guests, such as the always-charming Warwick Davis, adds some sparkly to keep people watching (and to keep the contestants endearingly starstruck). The result is a calculated, but well-executed formula that whips up enough entertainment to cast a spell over an audience of all ages – it’s a magical treat for the whole family. The Phelpses, meanwhile, are likeable enough hosts, and are game enough to lean into the spectacle of it all. “Arresto momentum! Your time is up!” they cry. Maybe they have found a catchphrase after all.

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